Glutinous Rice Cakes, Fish, and More: Chinese New Year Favorites in Indonesia and Elsewhere

JAKARTA, KOMPAS.com – Like other aspects of the Chinese or Lunar New Year, the foods laid out for banquets to mark this festive occasion is rife with symbolism. This is no less the case with glutinous rice cakes, a Chinese New Year staple savored in Indonesia and elsewhere.

“Glutinous rice cakes have symbolized hope since its inception in the 3rd century BC China during the time of the Han Dynasty,” said Oey Tjin Eng, a Chinese cultural expert and stalwart of the Chinese community in Tangerang, the provincial capital of Banten province.

“These sweetcakes started off as rations for the emperor’s army, due to their sweet taste and lengthy six month shelf life. Metaphorically speaking, they are still rations that can get us through our journey through the new year.”

The 76-year old added that “the glutinous rice cakes are also a symbol of hope which can sustain us through the Covid-19 pandemic. We can also add a tangerine for luck.”

Also read: Chinese New Year 2021: 5 Unique Traditions and Their Meanings

Aside from glutinous rice cakes, various types of fish, such as catfish, crucian carp, and milkfish or are also fixtures in Chinese New Year meals. The China Highlights media website said this is due to the homophonic words for the fish and economic gain.

“[The] Chinese [word for fish], yu, sounds like surplus,” noted the China Highlights website.

“Chinese people always like to have a surplus at the end of the year, because they think if they have managed to save something at the end of the year, then they can make more in the next year.”

Among the species favored for Chinese New Year meals include catfish, crucian carp, and Chinese mud carp or milkfish.

Dok. Shutterstock/puttography A steamed fish, a typical way to prepare milkfish, crucian carp or catfish for Chinese New Year banquets

Also read: Covid-19: Government Calls for Low-Key CNY Celebrations in Indonesia

1. “The Chinese word for ‘catfish’, nianyu, sounds similar to the term for ‘year surplus’. So eating catfish is a wish for a surplus in the year.”

2. Crucian carp: The first Chinese character for this fish, je or jee, sounds like the Chinese word for good luck, so “eating crucian carp is considered to bring good luck for the next year.”

3. Chinese mud carp or milkfish: Eating this fish for the Chinese New Year is considered to be just as auspicious. “The first part of the Chinese [character] for ‘mud carp’, li yu, is pronounced like the word for gifts," said China Highlights.

The similarity of the fish's scales to diamonds, and their connotations of wealth, are part of the reason why they are fixtures in Chinese New Year's meals. 

Pullman Jakarta Central Park A Chinese New Year banquet

Also read: Covid-19: No Lion Dance Performances during CNY in Indonesia's Pontianak City

"So Chinese people think eating mud carp during the Chinese New Year symbolizes wishing for good fortune. For these reasons, milkfish is considered a symbol of hope and good fortune.”

Aside from glutinous rice cakes and fish, the Chinese New Year banquets also featured longevity noodles, ‘good fortune fruit’ like tangerines, sweet rice balls, and dumplings.

While the Covid-19 pandemic might dampen the sense of togetherness of that this meal entails in previous years, it still does not detract from their symbolic significance, or giving the diner hope for better days.

(Writers: Singgih Wiryono, Lea Lyliana | Editor: Egidius Patnistik, Silvita Agmasari)

Sources: 

https://megapolitan.kompas.com/read/2021/02/11/19342021/kue-keranjang-simbol-harapan-dan-bekal-memasuki-tahun-baru-imlek. 

https://www.kompas.com/food/read/2021/02/11/101200575/mengapa-ikan-bandeng-sering-disajikan-saat-imlek?page=all#page2.