Tongkonan Lempe, North Toraja, indonesia's Land Above the Clouds

KOMPAS.com - For visitors to South Sulawesi province's Tana Toraja or North Tana Toraja regencies are an otherworldly experience that make one feel like they stepped back in time. The highlands draw travelers seeking clean, mountain air and eclectic traditional cultures.

These range from houses and buildings built according to Tongkonan architecture with their boat shaped roofs, macabre rituals involving the mummies of the local people's loved ones to Toraja's eponymously named coffee, which is a much sought after brew by coffee lovers. 

But Tana Toraja and North Tana Toraja also has their hidden gems, among them the Negeri di Atas Awan or Land Above the Clouds North Toraja. This area's days as a distinct surprise is numbered, as it is promoted by none other than President Joko or Jokowi himself. 

"If one happens to go on vacation in Toraja, North Toraja's Negeri di Atas Awan is a worthwile destinations to visit," said the President at the opening of Toraja Airport in Mengkendek, Tana Toraja, South Sulawesi, Thursday, March 18.

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Also known as the Lolai area , visitors to Negeri di Atas Awan can literally find their head in the clouds. Among those who enjoyed this experience are Jokowi's late mother, Sudjiatmi Notomiharjo in 2016.

In Lolai, there are three tourist objects that can be visited in one go because of their close proximity, namely To'Tombi, Tongkonan Lempe, and Pongtorra. These three present a panoramic view of nature and the city from above a height covered in white clouds, as well as views of the sun rising and setting on an orange tinged sky.

A start at Tongkonan Lempe

Located 11 kilometers from the nearest town of Rantepao, Tongkonan Lempe is a good place to start a walk in the clouds. It is the first tourist attraction established in Lolai in 2015.

Tongkonan Lempe derived its name from is a traditional house for local residents. There is a line of Tongkonans whose buildings are in the form of traditional Toraja houses with curved roofs like boats and consisting of bamboo structures.

The front of the Tongkonan features several water buffalo horns that have been dried and arranged neatly.

Among its first visitors are photographers from Jakarta, Surabaya, Bandung, Toraja, Palu and Makassar who are drawn to its natural beauty. Among them are Abun Pasanggang, the current manager of Tongkonan Lempe.

"We [first got wind of Tongkonan Lempe] when we were heading off to capture the Ma'Nene ceremony in 2014," he recalled to Kompas.com.

"In the morning, we saw there was a building. We were later invited there at dawn, which was a very nice experience, though back then there were more trees."

Since then, Abun began to visit intensively and even stayed for a few days to study the locations and its cloud conditions before introducing the spot to the publice. The local people also began to ask him about Lolai's potential to become a tourist spot.

Lolai then began to boom and was widely covered by the media in 2015. The tourist spot only rented tents at the beginning, then other facilities began to be built in its wake.

These include resorts, restaurants, toilets, photo spots, camping areas and prayer room to accomodate the increasing numbers of visitors.

Dok. Abun Pasanggang Visitors at one of the photo spots in Tongkonan Lempe, Lolai, North Toraja.

When entering, visitors will see two Tongkonans facing three barns.

"The shape looks similar, but has a different function. The Tongkonan is for people to live, the barn, as is usual, is for storing grain," said Abun.

One can sit and savor some Toraja coffee while relaxing and enjoying the expanse of white clouds and the cool breeze at Tongkonan's terrace. The views of the clouds, or waiting for the sunrise or sunset while camping is also a worthwhile experience.

Getting to Tongkonan Lempe

Tongkonan Lempe is about 20 minutes by motorbike and 40 minutes by car from Rantepao if there is no traffic jam. The entry fee is only IDR15,000.

"If the parking lot in Tongkonan Lempe is full, visitors will use the residents' yard. Here, we charge IDR5,000 for motorbikes and IDR10,000 for cars. The tips are handed over to house owner," said Abun.

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"If one want to stay in small hotels, the prices range from IDR. 250,000 to IDR1 million [$17.34 - $69.37]. If visitors want to camp, they can bring their own tent or rent from a local resident by paying IDR80,000 to IDR100,000 depending on the size of the tent.

Abun suggested coming to Tongkonan Lempe at 4 am local time to avoid traffic jams, so that visitors can see the view of the beautiful sunrise.

Dok. Abun Pasanggang Tongkonan Lempe, Lolai, Toraja Utara.

"If you come and there is no sun, you can drink Toraja coffee. Here, the price of Torajan coffee is IDR5,000 per cup. The locals also sell the coffee," Abun continued.

Despite the idyll, the requirements to wear masks, wash their hands and keep their distance. Nonetheless, this does not take away the joy of seeing the pristine scenery. Toraja is one of the areas designated as New Balis by President Jokowi

(Writer: Citra Fany Samparaya | Editors: Anggara Wikan Prasetya, I Made Asdhiana)

Sources:
https://travel.kompas.com/read/2021/03/22/060600027/tongkonan-lempe-wisata-negeri-atas-awan-di-toraja-utara 

https://travel.kompas.com/read/2018/08/21/112700827/rasakan-sensasi-berkemah-di-atas-awan-hanya-di-lolai-toraja-utara